Architectural Design of the Kansas State Penitentiary

In 1859, the Kansas Territorial Legislature took a significant step by establishing a state penitentiary in Leavenworth County. A 40-acre tract was acquired in Delaware Township, paving the way for the Kansas State Penitentiary. This decision came despite the fervent opposition of Leavenworth residents who voiced strong concerns about the location. At that time, the area was seen as remote and isolated, lacking any nearby towns except for the tiny community of Delaware to the east. The establishment of this institution marked a pivotal moment in the region’s history, as it set the stage for future development, even in the face of local resistance.

The original architectural design of the Kansas State Penitentiary was the work of Erasmus T. Carr, who began planning the structure in 1861. Drawing inspiration from the Gothic-style Illinois State Prison at Joliet, Carr incorporated striking Gothic architectural elements into the facility’s design — both for their imposing visual effect and their symbolic expression of law and order.

The administrative building featured four distinctive turrets, one at each corner, giving the structure a castle-like appearance. Matching turrets and Gothic elements were also integrated into each corner of the North and South Cell Houses, reinforcing the symmetry and stylistic consistency across the front façade.

The prison was built primarily from locally quarried limestone, with the inmates themselves performing the majority of the labor. In a testament to resourcefulness and regional craftsmanship, the material used as mortar between the limestone blocks was sourced from the Missouri River. During rainy years, when the river rose and covered nearby sandbars, construction often paused until the sandbars reemerged and materials could be gathered again.

This fusion of Gothic Revival design and frontier practicality created one of the most imposing and historically significant prison structures in the Midwest.

His Gothic-style architectural vision gave rise to the castles-like appearance that Truman Capote, in his book In Cold Blood, described the penitentiary as a “black and white castle,” capturing its imposing and eerie beauty. The look was further intensified by the presence of an on-site coal mine, which operated from 1881 to 1947.

While the penitentiary has retained much of its historical integrity, the original front, once covered in green vines and vegetation, is now boarded by modern fencing and Constantine wire, offering a sharp contrast to its 19th-century past.

Walk the Path of the Forgotten

Step behind the stone walls of the historic Kansas State Penitentiary in Lansing—where every corridor echoes with the footsteps of men who would never walk free again.

On this unforgettable tour, you’ll stand inside the very cells that held inmates serving life for murder. You’ll peer into the cold, dark corners of segregation, where the worst of the worst were kept—some awaiting their turn on death row.

This isn’t just a tour. It’s a journey into the past… into the minds of the condemned… and into the heart of a prison that has seen over a century of secrets, sorrow, and survival.

Are you ready to walk where they walked?
Book your tour today—and experience history from the inside.

Stone, Steel, and Silence: The Legacy of KSP

Decommissioned in 2020 after housing inmates for more than 160 years, the Kansas State Penitentiary remains a powerful symbol of Kansas’s complex legacy of crime and punishment. While no longer housing the incarcerated, the facility is far from silent. The Kansas Department of Corrections continues to utilize the historic administration building for training and operational purposes. Most notably, the fourth floor still houses the state’s lethal injection chamber—often referred to as the “death chamber”—which remains intact and operational. Because of this, the penitentiary has not been fully decommissioned.

What makes this site unlike any other in the country is that public tours are conducted within the walls of a facility that is still bordered on all four sides by an active, working maximum-security prison. These rare and powerful tours are led by the Lansing Historical Society Museum, featuring guides who served as wardens, assistant wardens, and correctional officers—offering firsthand accounts and behind-the-scenes insight into one of America’s oldest and most formidable institutions.

This is not a re-creation. This is not a simulation. This is real history, surrounded by real prison operations, unfolding in real time.

Johnny Cash and June Carter Cash at KSP

On May 15, 1970, Johnny Cash stood on the stage of the auditorium of the Kansas State Penitentiary and launched one of the most audacious feats in music history, a record that has never been broken. That day, the Man in Black, set a record by performing at three different prisons in a single day, starting right here in Lansing, Kansas.

“In Cold Blood: the Final Chapter”

For those of us who grew up in the shadow of the Kansas State Penitentiary, we remember quite well the night—60 years ago—that Richard Hickok and Perry Smith swung from the gallows. It was a rainy night, and the earth was still, but when it came time to put the noose around their necks, the neighborhood dogs began to bark. It was no longer a quiet evening.

Their journey to the gallows began in 1959 when they murdered four members of the Clutter family. Acting on a hot tip, these two ex-convicts went to Holcomb, Kansas, believing the farmer kept a safe with $10,000 in cash. When they discovered it was a hoax and there was no money, Perry Smith took his anger out on the family.

Dick Hickok, who always claimed he never laid a hand on anyone, was still guilty—for going along with it and not stopping it.

The murders made it onto a back page of The New York Times that week. But it was enough for Truman Capote to take notice. Once he started digging into the story, he knew there was a book there. And of course, the rest is “His Story.”

Where history and hauntings collide

The First Apex Paranormal Investigation at the Historic Kansas State Penitentiary!

History and hauntings collide as Apex Paranormal prepares to conduct its first-ever investigation inside the Kansas State Penitentiary in Lansing, Kansas! Known for its dark past, infamous inmates, and eerie atmosphere, KSP is opening its doors for a chilling exploration into the unknown.

From the old cell houses where prisoners spent their days behind bars to the very spot where executions took place, this investigation will take you deep into the shadows of one of the oldest penitentiaries in the country. Will the echoes of the past make themselves known?

Stay tuned for updates, and don’t miss your chance to be part of this historic event!

The History of Kansas State Penitentiary

The Kansas State Penitentiary, established by the Kansas Territorial Legislature in 1859, is one of the nation’s oldest prisons and offers a remarkable opportunity to explore over 160 years of rich history. This historic site stands as a testament to the evolution of the American justice system. The compelling stories of those who lived and worked within its formidable walls are shared by former correctional officers, assistant wardens, and wardens.

Historical Significance:
The Kansas State Penitentiary is more than just a building; it symbolizes Kansas’ early statehood and the challenges of establishing law and order on the frontier. Opening shortly after Kansas became a state, this prison has witnessed significant events from the Civil War to the modern era, with each period leaving its mark on its history.

Architectural Marvel:
The prison’s imposing limestone structures, quarried and constructed by early inmates, reflect the craftsmanship of that era. As you walk the grounds, you can almost hear echoes of the past—the sound of hammers in the stone quarries, voices from the chow hall, and even the performances that once took place within its walls.

Personal Narratives:
The untold stories of inmates, staff, and their families provide a rich tapestry of experiences that highlight themes of rehabilitation, resilience, and human struggles. Educational programs often include personal accounts from former staff or historians who can elaborate on the complexities of life inside the prison. This aspect brings a personal touch to the factual history, making it more relatable and engaging.

Cultural Connections:
The facility is also a significant piece of cultural history, having hosted performances from iconic musicians, like Johnny Cash and his wife, June Carter Cash during the early 1970’s to hosting the annual “Behind the Walls” car show the last weekend in September.

Interactive Learning:
Guided tours by former correctional officers can offer engaging learning opportunities for students, history enthusiasts, and the general public. These experiences can include interactive exhibits, discussions, and even workshops that delve deeper into the societal implications of incarceration and reform.

Overall, the historic Kansas State Penitentiary stands as an educational resource, inviting reflection on justice, history, and human experience. It encourages visitors to engage thoughtfully with the complexities of the past while considering their relevance to contemporary issues.

Join Our Team at the Kansas State Penitentiary Tours

The Lansing Historical Society and Museum is on the lookout for passionate individuals eager to share their love of history! We are excited to announce that we have two enticing paid positions available:

Tour Guides – $40 per Tour
Are you a history enthusiast who thrives on storytelling? If so, this role is tailor-made for you! As a Tour Guide, you will take guests on a captivating journey through the historic halls of the Kansas State Penitentiary. Your mission will be to unveil the intriguing stories of those who once walked its corridors, breathing life into the rich tapestry of the past.

Rounder-Uppers – Paid Position
Join us as a Rounder-Upper, where your role will be vital in ensuring our tours run seamlessly. You’ll be the friendly face who gathers visitors, assists them on their adventure, and keeps everything on schedule. Your enthusiasm will help create a welcoming atmosphere, ensuring every guest feels included and engaged.

Both positions promise not only a chance to stay active and meet fascinating people but also the opportunity to play a key role in preserving and sharing the vibrant history of our community.

Are you ready to embark on this exciting journey with us?
Apply today and become an integral part of our team! Send your application via email to info@lansingkansashistory.com.preserving local history.
Interested?

“Behind the Walls” a car show

Picture a sprawling venue filled with an incredible array of gleaming, jaw-dropping vehicles, each one vying for attention under the brilliant September sun. The ballfield is primed for action, ready to welcome all the high-octane thrills and creative displays. Shine up those wheels, because you’ll be immersed in a world of stunning cars, infectious energy, and unforgettable moments! We can’t wait for you to experience this lively celebration of all things automotive!

For just $25, you can bring your car along (drivers included!), with the same fee for passengers and walk-ins. And guess what? This isn’t just about cars—it’s also a fantastic fundraiser for the Lansing Historical Society and Museum, so you’ll be supporting a great cause while having a blast!

The story of Ernest Aspinwall

This photo of Ernest Aspinwall, taken in 1959 by a Kansas City Star photographer, captures a moment of recognition for Ernie and his incredible artistic talent. At the time, the Star was featuring a story about his life, his artwork, and the frescoes he painted in the auditorium of the Service Center building. In the background of the photo, the older penitentiary buildings are visible, including the building that housed Death Row. This historic view contrasts with the present use of the same space, which is now the site of the baseball field and recreation area.

Aspinwall’s sentences were commuted by the governor in 1959, and by 1969, Aspinwall was creating art as a street artist in San Francisco. Today many of his works are considered highly collectible.

This photo serves as a powerful reminder of Aspinwall’s story and the evolution of the penitentiary itself – preserving the past while acknowledging its transformation over time.

The Service Center Building, constructed in 1923, is an extraordinary part of the Kansas State Penitentiary’s legacy, showcasing stunning Art Deco design on both its exterior and the interior of its auditorium/gymnasium. This three-story brick building holds a deep historical and cultural significance.
One of its most notable features is the series of four frescoes painted by former inmate Ernest Aspinwall. Aspinwall, serving two life sentences as an habitual criminal, demonstrated remarkable artistic talent during his incarceration. The frescoes are remarkable depictions of early frontier life and the pioneers who settled in Kansas. Aspinwall was deeply dedicated to his craft, often spending months researching the subject matter of his art to ensure its authenticity and detail.
Aspinwall’s meticulous work reflects not only his artistic talent but also to his commitment to preserving history through art. These frescoes are more than just paintings on a wall, they are an irreplaceable record of Kansas’s frontier past, capturing the spirit of those who helped shape the state’s identity.

Aspinwall painted a series of 14 paintings depicting life inside the walls of Kansas State Penitentiary. They hang on the walls of the administration building at Lansing Correctional Facility today.